Two weeks ago, I competed in the famous Arco Rockmaster Festival. During 4 days long, 4 disciplines are represented: bouldering, speed, lead and dual (for lead finalists only).
Last year, I had decided to compete in all disciplines except for speed (obviously, I’m not a speed climber^^). I’d been competing for 4 days in a row and managed to sneak into the finals in bouldering and lead. I ended up at the 9th place in bouldering, 7th place in lead and 8th place in dual after missing the buzzer.
This year, I was more reasonable and decided to only focus on lead. Because I wasn’t world ranked in the top 6, I had to pass a qualifiying round where the top 6 climbers got a ticket for the actual Rockmaster.
The day after were the bouldering qualifiers, meaning a rest day for Sean and I. We went the to the beautiful Riva Del Garda lake and enjoyed the sun all afternoon.
The day after, back to serious stuff with lead semi-finals. My goal was to make finals, but I knew the route would be crazy hard and given all the strong climbers there, I would have to fight (very) hard.
The route was even harder than I expected: no feet, big moves and sloppy holds! Everything I love…! In the end, I managed to pass the first crux but after a big mistake, l fell early in the middle of the route. I thought for sure it wouldn’t be enough, but luck was on my side that day because a few girls fell before me and I made it into finals in 7th place !! Yay!!
Just after semis, back to isolation for the 20min work session of the finals route. One after the other, the 9 finalists tried the route. It was really hot and humid, and the route felt SO hard. I think all of us got kind of scared to climb it again in the evening!
A few hours later, it was time to for the real finals. Personally, there was a big move that I couldn’t do at the 4th draw… That’s why I psyched myself up and got ready to try as hard as I could. I climbed through the first cruxes, really surprised that it felt that much easier. I was so happy and feeling so comfortable that I even waved to the crowd! Everything was going perfectly…
…Until my foot slipped. Nooooooo I brutally woke up from my dream climb and finished at the 7th place. Too bad because I was feeling surprisingly very strong, but I guess it’s okay because I had lots of fun climbing.
The reason why I really wanted to be in finals was because all the lead finalists get to compete the day after in the DUAL. The principle is simple: on an identical route, the climbers race against each other (after a qualifying run that establish the duals).
Because I finished 2d of the qualifying run with a time of 188s, I got to do my first dual against the climber that finished at the 7th place. I won without having to hurry too much. I lost my next dual against Dinara Fakhritdinova with a time of 112s. I was then in lead for 3rd place against Mina Markovic:
Really psyched to have gone that far in the competition, I gave everything I had and even outdistanced Mina during the first 3/4 of the route until a f***ing clip. She caught up on me and after a very close finish, she won with a half second on me. I was so frustrated. I was in such a good rythm until my mistake. But oh well, that’s what the dual is, being able to keep going despite obstacles! I finally ended up at the 4th place, frustrated to be at the foot of the podium, but still quite happy with my performance
In the end, it’s true that I could’ve had better results on the whole competition, but I had SO much fun that it doesn’t even matter! I already can’t wait for next year!
Coming next: The Adidas Rockstars on the 19th and 20th of September!